Method of making shoes



Sept. 8, 1931. w. J. KELLY 1,822,853

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed July 8, 1931 INVENT R e?? v E y M@ L 722m ATTO R N EY Patented Sept. 8, 1931 UNITED sTATEs PATENT oFFlcEv WILLIAM: J'. KELLY, OF BROOKLYN, NEW '-YORK, ASSIGNOR 0F ONE-HALF T0 ARTHUR D.

BASCH, 0F BMOKLY'N, NEW YORK METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Application lcd July 8,

This invention relates to the art of making shoes, and the principal object thereof is a new and improved method of makin shoes as hereinafter set forth in the speci cation and claims, references being had to the accompanying drawings, in which- Figure 1 is a side elevation of a shoe in proces of manufacture with the upper tacked on the last.

Figure 2 is a vertical transverse cross section showing the first step of the method.

Figure 3 is a vertical transverse cross sec'- tion taken on line 3-3 of Figure 1, showing the tacks driven into the bottom edges of the sides of the last while the upper is held.

Figure 4 is a similar view after the insole has been attached in position and with the tacks bent upwardly.

Figure 5 1s an enlarged vertical sectional View of a portion of a shoe, and showing the sewing step of attaching the upper to the insole.

Figure 6 is a view similar to Figures 2 and 3 showing the shoe after the completion of the sewing step illustrated in Figure.

This application contains subject matter taken from my copending applications, Serial No. 95,853, filed March 19, 1926, and Serial No. 385,390, filed August 12, 1929'.

In the drawings the reference character 1l designates the last. In the first step of my method, the upper 2 is pulled downwardly over the last simultaneously at opposite sides thereof and at the toe portion y means of the side pulling devices 3 and the toe pulling device 4, and the marginal portions of the upper are drawn down practically to the edges or corners of the last. While the toe ulling device 4 has been included, it is to e expressly understood that the toe pulling device may be omitted, andthe pulling only performed by the side pulling devices 3. While the upper is heldin a pulled or drawn condition by the pulling devices, the side tacks 5 and the toe tack 6 are simultaneously driven into the sides of the last and the toe thereof adjacent the bottom edges thereof, as shown in Figure 3. It is to be noted, however, that the tacks are driven into the sides of the last and not into the bottom of the last 1981. Serial No. 549,515.

in accordance with the usual practice. `The toe tack 6 may be omitted and only the side tacks 5 drlven into the sides of the last while the upper is held. v The next step of my method is illustrated 1n Flgure 4 and includes the application of the sole or insole 7 to the last 1 and may be held 1n place by an suitable means such as a tack or tacks. 8. 'he free edges of the upper are turned outwardly and overlap and rest upon the protruding margins or edges of the sole or insole 7, as clearly illustrated in Figure 4. After the insole has been laced on the last the tacks are bent upwar l as shown 1n Figure 4 so that the heads o the tacks are slightly above the plane of the outward turned portions of the up er.

The next step involves placing the lasted upper upon a tiltable pivoted table 9 with the insole 7 in contact with the table. The table and I ast are tilted or shifted to an inclinedI position, as indicated in Figure 5, to present a corner portion of the lasted u per to the shoe or roller 10 of the presser oot mechanismv 1 1 of the sewing machine. The lasted upper 1s then supported upon the table and is moved or advanced by the workman so as to present the upper and insole to the stitchin it will ge apparent that during the sewing operation the line of stitching passes along and is in alinement with the tack holes inv the upper 2. During the stitching operation, the stitches of the seam embrace the tacks so that when the tacks are afterwards withdrawn, no signs of any holes are visible.A

After the tacks have been driven into the sor last, the pulling devices released and the tacks bent upwardly, as shown in Fi ure 4- the upper becomes somewhat loosene In the sew ing operation the upper is forced downwardly and against the last by the roller or presser foot 10 and this results in tightening the upper on the last. At the same time that the presser foot is performing its functions, the edges ofthe upper are forced down and the upper is stitched to the sole so that the seam passes over the tacks and hides or. covers the tack holes. l

The roller 10 engages the upper at the angle formed by the Qut turned margin andl pressing over against it acts to crowd or Aforce that portion of the upper somewhat below the last, so that the stitches of the seam pass through the upper and insole at an angle and as close as possible to the corner or angle 13 of the upper. This mechanism and the details of the operation thereof are all disclosed and described in full in my copending application Serial'No. 95,853.

When the sewing operation shown in Figure 5 is completed and the tacks have been removed, the lasted upper has the appearance shown in Figure 6. If desired, an outer sole may then be sewed to the lasted shoe as is the usual practice.

'It is, however, apparent that by using my method it is possible to produce a shoe quickly and economically, and that a minimum amount of expenditure of time and labor and a minimum amount of material are used. Furthermore, the shoe produced is accurately lasted and the various parts thereof are permanently secured together to give good wear, pleasing appearance, and proper fit.

What I claim is 1. In the art of making stitch down shoes,

the process which comprises drawing the upper downwardly'around a last simultaneously at opposite sides thereof and close to the edges thereof and fastening the upper to the last by means driven throu h the upper and into the sides of the last adjacent the bottom edges thereof, the edges of said upper being free and adapted to be bent laterally, imposing an insole upon the drawn upper and securing the insole to the last so that the free edges of theupper rest upon and are supported by the 'margin of the insole and at a sharp angle to the upper and last.

2. In the art of making stitch down shoes, the process which comprises drawing or pulling an upper downwardly around a last simultaneously at opposite sides thereof and close to the edges thereof and fastening the upper to the last by means driven through the upper and into the sides of the last near the forepart thereof and adjacent the bottom edges thereof, the edges of the upper being free and adapted to be bent laterally, imposing a sole upon the drawn upper and securing the sole to the last so that the free edges of the upper rest upon and are supported by the margins of the sole and at a sharp angle to the upper and last, and stitching the sole and the upper together at said sharp angle along the line of the tacks and at a decided angle to the vertical. y

3. In the art of making stitch down shoes, the process which comprises drawing or pulling an upper around a last simultaneously at opposite sides thereof and close to the edges thereof'and fastening the upper to the last by means driven through the upper and into the sides of the last adjacent the bottom edges sides thereof so as to have the thereof, the edges of said upper. being free and adapted to e bent laterally, imposing an insole upon the drawn up er and securing the lnsole to the last so that t e free edges of the upper rest upon and are supported by the margins of the insole and at a sharp angle to the upper and last, and securing said insole and upper together by means passing through last by tacks drlven into the sidesfof the last,

adjacent the bottom edges thereof, imposing an insole, placing the last upon a table and presenting the corner of the last and the upper at an angle to the plane of the stitch-forming mechamsm, and sewing the upper and insole by a seam'which passes close to the corners of the last and is diagonal to the face of the insole.

5. The method of making stitch down shoes, which comprises, drawing or pulling an upper over a last simultaneously at opposite marginal portions drawn or pulled down beyond the lower edges or corners of the last, and temporarily fastening the upper to the lastat the fore part thereof'by tacks driven into the sides of the last adjacent the bottom edges thereof and leaving free edge portions of the upper.

6. The method of making stitch down shoes, which comprises, pulling an upper downwardly over a last simultaneously on opposite sidesthereof, temporarily fastening the upper to the last near the bottom edges thereof by tacks driven through the upper and into the sides of the last adjacent the bottom edges thereof and leaving the marginal portions of the'upper free, mounting a sole on the drawn or pulled upper and stitching the sole to the edge portions of the drawn or pulled upper with the seam passing over the line of tacks.

7 The method of making stitch down shoes, which comprises, pulling an upper downwardly over a last', temporarily fastening the upper to the last near the bottom edges thereof by driving tacks simultaneously through the upper and into the sides of the last adjacentthe bottom edges thereof and leaving the edge rportions of the upper free, mounting a sole on the drawn or pulled upper and then stitching the assembly at an angle so that the upper is forced below the bottom edges or corners of the last and the upper is stitched to the sole so as to tightly engage the last.

8. The method of making stitch down shoes, which comprises, drawing or pulling an upper downwardly over the toe and at angle and at an inclination to the opposite sides of a last simultaneously, si-

multaneously driving tacks through the upper into the toe and sides of the last close to the bottom edges thereof, mounting a sole on the drawn or pulled upper and then stitching the assembly through the angle of the upper and sole while forcing the upper downwardly to tightly engage the last.

9. The methol of making stitch down shoes, which comprises, pulling an upper downwardly over a last at opposite sides thereof, simultaneously driving tacks through the upper into the sides of the last close to the bottom edges thereof and near the fore part of the last, and leaving free edge p0rtions of the upper.

10. The method of making stitch down shoes, which comprises, drawing or pulling an upper downwardly over a last simultaneously at opposite sides thereof, simultaneously driving tacks through the upper and into the sides of the last close to the bottom' edges thereof and near the fore part thereof,

mounting a sole on the drawn or pulled upper and then stitching the assembly through the angle of the upper and sole while forcing the upper downwardly to tightly engage the last.

1l. The method of making stitch down shoes, which comprises, pulling an upper downwardly over a last simultaneously on opposite sides thereof, temporarily fastening the upper to the last near the bottom edges thereof by tacks driven through the upper and into the sides of the last adjacent the bottom edges thereof and leaving the marginal portions of the upper free, the tacks being driven into the sides of the last while the Vupper is held in a pulled condition, mounting a sole on the drawn or pulled upper with the seam passing over the line of tacks.

12. 'Ihe method of making stitch down shoes, which comprises, pulling an `=`vupper downwardly over a last simultaneously at opposite sides thereof, driving tacks through the upper into the sides of the last near the bottom edges thereof and releasing the downk ward pull on the upper so as to leave the edge portions of the upper free, mounting a sole on the drawn or pulled upper, and then stitching the sole to the top portions of the drawn or pulled upper.

In testimony that I claim the foregoing, I have hereunto set my hand this 1st day of July, 1931. wiLLiAM J. KELLY. 

